Drinking beer at ‘the longest bar in the world’ in Dusseldorf

Let me begin with a confession — I’m not much of a beer drinker. Give me a glass (or two) of wine or a cocktail and I'll happily quaff it, but I find a tall glass of beer rather daunting. However, there’s no escaping beer in Germany, and on my trip to Düsseldorf earlier this year, I was keen to try the city’s specialty — Altbier.

Set the scene

I walked into a pub and found servers pulling beer into narrow glasses. “I can finish that, no problem,” I thought to myself. The dark beer was a bit potent, but I managed to down the glass. Almost as if by magic, a server appeared by my side with another beer. “I didn't order it,” I protested. But my guide Björn laughed. “In Düsseldorf, they’ll keep bringing you beer until you indicate that you’re done. Just place this coaster on top of your empty glass and they’ll know,” he explained. I promptly placed a coaster on my glass, and the server plonked the fresh glass in front of Björn instea

With nearly 300 pubs, restaurants, and bars located within half a square kilometre, Düsseldorf’s Altstadt or Old Town is often called ‘the longest bar in the world’. The beverage of choice here is the Altbier, a potent top-fermented beer that’s brewed with traditional techniques.

Brew it right

Altbier, often referred to simply as “Alt”, is a dark, copper-coloured beer that’s known for its malty sweetness. Despite its appearance, it is a fairly light beer with ABV ranging between 4.3 per and 5.5 percent. What sets it apart from other German beer styles is the fermentation process. Unlike the more famous bottom-fermented German lagers, Altbier is a top-fermented ale similar to Kölsch from the neighbouring city of Cologne. Top fermentation is an older method of making beer, hence the name Altbier that literally translates to ‘old beer’. This unique brewing method imparts a slightly fruity and complex flavour profile to the beer, not to mention a fresh and full-bodied taste.

The Düsseldorf area has been brewing this beer for centuries, although the current style of Altbier was developed in the 19th century. By the mid-20th century, there were around 100 breweries in the area, but the number has now dwindled down to single digits, mainly due to lack of demand. Which is surprising, since the malty, smooth altbier is deliciously complex — a treat in summer, but especially comforting to drink during the long, grey German winters.

Raise a toast

If your enduring image of German beers is of massive glass steins — thanks to the popularity of Oktoberfest, you will be surprised when your first glass of Altbier hits the table. It is always served in small, cylindrical glasses, typically holding around 200 - 250ml of beer. The glasses are specifically designed to maintain the beer’s temperature, which means you’re never drinking a warm, flat beer.

Altbier is served by köbesse or brewery waiters who are famously gruff but extremely efficient — weaving around tables, bearing trays laden with beer glasses, and keeping an eye out if you have finished your drink. One of them will immediately be by your side, setting a full glass on the table and keeping a running tally on your coaster. Once you’ve had your fill, simply place your coaster on top of your empty glass, a signal to your köbes that you’re ready to settle the bill.

Drink up

Here are five Altbier hotspots in Düsseldorf:

• Brauerei Schumacher: Düsseldorf’s oldest brewery, this has been hand-crafting Altbier since 1838. Its historic Oststrasse location in Altstadt is a great place to begin your bar hop (although they have another brewpub in Altstadt called Zum Goldenen Kessel).
• Uerige: Established in 1862, this is a veritable institution (established 1862) on Berger Strasse, this is the locals’ favourite joint, just a stone’s throw from the Rhine riverfront.
• Im Füchschen: Translating to ‘little fox’, this brewery has been around since 1848 and its rustic ambience is the perfect setting to immerse yourself in the local beer culture.
• Zum Schlüssel: Established in 1850, this is the smallest of the four traditional breweries in the Old Town. They have a cosy pub on Bolkerstrasse and a large beer garden in the churchyard opposite.
• Brauerei Kürzer: Located on Kurze Strasse, this is the new kid on the block — opened in 2010 — and is known for its modern interpretation of traditional brewing methods.

As you move from pub to pub, remember to keep your stomach lined with food. Luckily, most breweries offer a hearty menu featuring traditional dishes such as suckling pig, pork knuckle, minced meat rolls, pea stew, and goulash. The more modern ones may offer burgers, wraps, and light bar bites. So join the Rhinelanders on an Altstadt evening, and say Prost!