Not so long ago, the word ‘luxury’ meant extravagance, elegance, something ostentatious or ‘posh’. Today things have changed. Luxury, which actually comes from the Latin ‘luxus’ to mean abundance and refinement, is more about a great comfort, about pleasure, about not being rushed or frazzled. It is also about quality and craftsmanship. On a recent trip to Italy, I now recognise why Italy still symbolises luxury to so many people. It’s not just about Venetian palaces or designer brands, it’s about the art of doing very little in stunning surroundings, of quality and simplicity in food and service which is friendly and forthcoming, but not overbearing. The Italians have managed to do this effortlessly.
Viesca Toscana, a renaissance reimagined
Viesca estate, located in the Florentine countryside
We stayed at the gorgeous Viesca estate, located in the Florentine countryside within easy driving distance of Florence, the gentle Chianti hills and the towns of Arezzo, Cortona, Siena, Pisa and Lucca. The estate is unique in that it dates back to the Renaissance and Romans before that and was purchased by Wanda and Salvatore Ferragamo in 1952 with the intent of making it a private residence where their children could grow up in the beauty of the Tuscan nature. With the arrival of the Ferragamo clan (six children and many grandchildren), significant renovation and architectural recovery work began, restoring the main villa and nearby farmhouses to their original beauty and making them the ideal place to spend summers and free time with the entire family.
When Salvatore Ferragamo died in 1960, Wanda played a pivotal role in managing the family business. She died a few years ago at the age of 96. The family decided to continue Wanda’s dream of turning it into a place dedicated to hospitality, and today, Viesca Toscana is part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. They have only suites and villas of all sizes (mostly big), the 16th-century main house, once the summer residence of Salvatore and Wanda and an emblem of timeless elegance, six private villas with private outdoor pools, and 20 suites in the Borgo di Pian Rinaldi.
The living room at Villa Viesca
Apart from enjoying the 70-hectare estate, we had some gorgeous simple Tuscan meals using produce from local suppliers as well as organic vegetables from their farm. To cater to the international traveller, they have added a spa with a hot tub, sauna, Turkish bath, relaxation area, elegant treatment rooms; a large outdoor pool, ideal for cocktails and aperitifs during the day, and two tennis courts surrounded by a poplar forest. What I loved most were the warm and elegant interiors, including my 70 square metre suite with natural tones, terracotta tiled floors, enormous bathrooms in local travertine (limestone which looks like marble) and rich off white linens. The charm of nature with understated elegance.
Viesca is immersed in a large surrounding park, where pines, olive trees, plane trees, large oaks, and cypresses grow alongside cherry, pomegranate, and plum trees. A rich wildlife finds refuge in the Estate: porcupines, hedgehogs, green lizards, and various bird species live undisturbed.
Villa Viesca’s grand but intimate dining room
Wanda Ferragamo created the soul of Viesca, and you can still feel the “family” atmosphere in every detail today. The furnishings reflect the savoir-faire of the hostess, far from excess, elegant in its simplicity. Wanda’s memory echoes everywhere: from the suites named after the iconic shoes of the historic “Shoemaker to the Stars” to the doorbell with the sign “Ferragamo Family”, and the wonderful gardens that still preserve the roses she loved so much. Photos and portraits of the family are displayed on the walls of the halls and corridors, and in the suites, guests can page through the Ferragamo exhibition books and the biographies of Salvatore and Wanda, all enhancing the important heritage of this place.
In and around Viesca
Arezzo, beyond the tourist trail
The author at the Christmas market in Arezzo; (right) a stall selling ‘brezels’ Karen Anand
Arrezo is a stunning Tuscan town, south of Florence and east of Siena. Unlike other Tuscan towns which are full of American tourists, Arezzo has preserved its architecture, charm and tradition. It has, in addition to a magnificent cathedral (where the film Life is Beautiful was shot), a central pedestrian walkway known as Corso Italia with extremely smart shopping. Arezzo is known for jewellery, especially gold and cutting edge designs. Piazza Grande is the central square where a medieval jousting tournament takes place in June and September called the Giostra del Saracino. The whole city turns up in medieval costume to compete for the Golden Lance trophy. Certainly worth planning your trip around this, but tickets need to be booked well in advance. They also have a very famous antique market on the first Sunday of every month and a Christmas market in December.
Truffle hunting
(L-R) Truffle hunting with dogs; the ‘catch’ of the day; and a truffle cooking demonstration Karen Anand
Truffles are undoubtedly becoming the ‘in’ luxury ingredient. I was recently at Nature’s Basket in Mumbai, where I saw a full shelf of truffle oils and other condiments made with truffle. For vegetarians, it represents a caviar of sorts – a delectable exotic tasting condiment that represents the high life. Truffles have been made famous by the French and by the northern Italians from Alba, where the most expensive white ones come from. I thought Tuscany was only full of Renaissance magic, rolling hills and olive groves till Sylvia Landucci of Boscovivo took me truffle hunting a few years ago in the forests outside Arezzo. Truffles differ from season to season in size and intensity. December is the end of the season for brown autumn truffles and the beginning of the much more aromatic black winter truffle. They grow in the wild Tuscan forests all year round except for a short period in late spring. The truffle season in Northern Italy and France is normally restricted from October to February. Tuscan truffles are an attractive proposition for chefs who need them all year round.
Local Arezzo gin with edible gold; cheese and accompaniments with the truffle Karen Anand
People are so fascinated with the dogs and their ability to sniff out these tubers which grow at the base of oak trees and wild in the forest, that Silvia has created something called Snuffle and Truffle where you hunt for truffles in the forest behind her store, have a little tour and then a tasting of her products along with a truffle lunch with dishes such as risotto with truffles, various bruschetta, ribolita (a hearty vegetarian Tuscan soupy stew) wild boar with truffle and white beans, panna cotta with truffle honey and edible gold and so on. Lunch is always accompanied by exceedingly good local wines and when we were there, with local Arezzo Gin with edible gold by Ivana Ciabatti. Arezzo is well known in Italy for gold production. Sylvia's family company Boscovivo also makes fantastic products with truffle; truffle salt; tartufata or truffle salsa made with chopped truffles, truffle oil and black olives, is delicious on poached eggs or on steamed asparagus. Boscovivo produces the best truffle honey I have ever tasted. This is a perfect accompaniment to cheese; and truffle carpaccio which are slices of truffle in olive oil, is excellent with toasted bread. Their truffle oil is fantastic because it is made with the extract of real truffle as opposed to essence which other brands use. I always stock up on the products and bring them back to India because they have a long shelf life.
Wine and legacy in Chianti
The Ricasoli estate and vineyard
The second thing to do, is of course to go to Chianti. There are many many wineries, but we were fortunate enough to be introduced to Castello Brolio and the Ricasoli family. It is the oldest winery in Italy, the second oldest in the world, and has some stunning wines, Chianti’s of course, but a very nice sweet Pasito and other products from their estate. They have this amazing view of their vineyards from the castle and we were lucky enough to be taken around and then taken to lunch by the last surviving member of the family, Elisabetta Dona Dalle Rose Ricasoli.
Wine tasting at Ricasoli Karen Anand
The Ricasoli family has been at Brolio since 1141. In 1860, Bettino Ricasoli (who later became Prime Minister of Italy), restored the castle after many bouts of unrest. Bettino introduced the rotation of crops, following the British example, alternating food and forage. He turned his attention to viticulture and wine production, experimenting continuously in the vineyards and cellars. Thanks to his research, Chianti Classico was born, just as we know it today, produced with mostly Sangiovese grapes. Bettino Ricasoli died at Brolio in October 1880 and is buried in the family chapel beside the castle. Ricasoli wines are considered among the best in Italy for their elegance and refinement as well as for their distinctive personality, a reflection of the uniqueness of the lands where the vineyards are planted. We tasted four distinct wines from their extensive portfolio including a sweet wine (Vin Santo) and their new olive oil.