Perched at an altitude of 7887ft, Chatakpur is a hamlet around 20km away from Darjeeling. It is a settlement of only 19 households with around 100 residents. Organic farming of vegetables in greenhouses is practised by most of the villagers, who also grow medicinal herbs commercially.
The lush green mountain village that sprawls across the slope of a forested hillside is an idyllic getaway to savour the majestic views of Mount Kanchenjunga and for the intrepid traveller, a few trekking trails through the dense forest can add a bit of adventure quotient to a relaxed, tranquil holiday.
‘From Mohan’s homestay, the paved pathway meandered through the village and ran into a steep stone staircase’
A leisurely hike through the leafy, picturesque terrain can reach you to the lofty heights of the Tiger Hill or to the small town of Sonada for a quick visit to the colourful monastery and a bowl of steamed pork momos.
Mohan Rai, the owner of the homestay where we had based ourselves for a three-day stay, accompanied us to Kalipokhri, a small waterbody where the villagers offer their prayers. The 30-minute trail through the stately pine forest was filled with a woody aroma. The breakfast hamper was put to good use on the paved embankments of Kalipokhri. Mohan informed us that this waterbody, considered holy by the locals, is home to quite a few Himalayan salamanders, one of the world’s rarest amphibians. The elusive salamanders did not show up though but we spotted a couple of pink frogs, sitting in a meditative repose amid the golden silence.
‘Our village trip ended at a local café over a cuppa of aromatic Darjeeling tea, freshly picked from a nearby tea estate’
On the way back to the village, Mohan recounted the story of Chatakpur. A couple of decades ago, the Himalayan village had been a timber smuggling hub, where most of its residents were actively involved in the illicit trade. “We sat down and collectively decided to put an end to the heinous crime of rampant cutting down of forest trees,” Mohan said. The villagers found themselves a unique livelihood instead. “Almost all the houses in Chatakpur boast of expansive mountain views,” – Mohan said. The villagers converted their modest homesteads into homestays that not only offered majestic snow views but also an intimate glimpse of the daily life of a mountain village.
That afternoon, Mohan showed us around the village with its pristine patches of organic farmlands, growing local vegetables in greenhouses. They also grow medicinal herbs endemic to the Eastern Himalayan foothills. Mohan said that both these organic produce and the medicinal plants help the locals in promoting a sustainable livelihood.
‘That afternoon, Mohan showed us around the village with its pristine patches of organic farmlands, growing local vegetables in greenhouses’
Our village trip ended at a local café over a cuppa of aromatic Darjeeling tea, freshly picked from a nearby tea estate, and paired with an engaging conversation with the owner of the café, an affable, middle-aged lady who also runs the adjacent guesthouse.
Early next morning, we set out for the hilltop viewpoint. From Mohan’s homestay, the paved pathway meandered through the village and ran into a steep stone staircase that wound its way up to the top, where a pagoda-like structure seemed to float amid the thick mist. We clambered our way up in silence, the rustle of leaves and the early morning chirps of blue magpies keeping us company.
‘To our right, the village of Chatakpur resembled a Chinese wash painting, its wooden, colourful cottages sitting in perfect harmony amid the alpine groves’
The view from the top took our breath away. To our right, the village of Chatakpur resembled a Chinese wash painting, its wooden, colourful cottages sitting in perfect harmony amid the alpine groves of oaks, pines and deodars, with the patches of organic farmlands, lending a soft, chequered base to the idyllic canvas. And to the far left, high on the horizon, the mighty massif of Kanchenjunga stood against a pale blue sky, whiffs of smoky clouds swirling about its snow-laden contours.
A strong wind blew in and as if on cue, the veil of mist thinned out to uncover the forest-clad landscape, in radiant shades of green, below us. High above, the clouds dispersed for a few fleeting seconds, and Kanchenjunga revealed itself in all its dazzling white glory.