Despite its reputation as a tourist’s nightmare, I am drawn to Venice year after year. For the past 15 years, I have been captivated by its breathtaking beauty, charming canals, crumbling palazzi, and a gondola ride. I don’t care whether it’s all a romantic illusion and that many Venetians today have migrated to the mainland town of Maestre, or even if the food in Venice often falls short of expectations. All you have to do is dig a little below the surface to discover some magic, as I do on every trip.
Cocktails by the Grand Canal, and an alfresco meal overlooking the Rialto bridge Courtesy Karen Anand
When it comes to food, Venice offers everything from the ridiculous to the sublime to the really down-to-earth. Here, you can eat badly and you can eat very well. Some tourists prefer not to take a chance with local specialities and are content with thick slices of pizza, grabbing a gelato on the go, or settling for a bowl of spaghetti with tomato sauce for supper. Others are drawn to well-known but expensive experiences like Florian, the 18th century cafe situated on St Mark’s Square, a visit to Harry’s Bar, or an exquisite dinner at Danieli. So, let’s throw away the guidebooks and embark on a Venetian adventure — my way. Here are my top 10 MUST DO’S in the City of Canals.
1. Stay in a Palazzo on the Grand Canal
The Palazzo Venart is a restored 15th-century palazzo Courtesy Karen Anand
My pick is the Palazzo Venart. The Grand Canal is without a doubt the most recognisable waterway in the world with magnificent private mansions, museums, churches and basilicas built through the centuries when Venice really was one of the most powerful and richest cities in Europe.
Nestled away in a less touristy part of the Grand Canal, yet just a short vaporetto ride away from Rialto (even shorter if you are in a speedboat or motoscafo), lies a hidden gem that captured my heart—the Palazzo Bacchini delle Palme. Dating back to the 15th century, this splendid palace, now known as Palazzo Venart, reopened its doors in September 2016 following extensive restoration.
The Palazzo Bacchini delle Palme, now known as Palazzo Venart Wikimedia Commons
As you step inside this 5-star hotel, adorned with antique Venetian upholstery and furniture, you’ll discover 17 stunning rooms and suites. It has a garden overlooking the Grand Canal, a charming two-Michelin starred restaurant, frescoes and paintings from the 1800s and Murano glass chandeliers. You really feel like a Queen here. The cherry on the cake is the presence of Luana Mazzega, the charming General Manager, who lives in Venice and shares an unwavering love for this palace. Prices are not through the roof for this level of luxury.
2. Sip the iconic Bellini
Enjoying Bellinis at the Hotel Cipriani Courtesy Karen Anand
A cocktail of Prosecco swizzed in a blender with the juice of fresh white peaches. Divine. The Bellini was invented between 1934 and 1948 by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Harry’s Bar in Venice. He named the drink the Bellini because the light pink colour reminded him of the toga of a saint in a painting by 15th-century Venetian artist Giovanni Bellini. The drink started as a seasonal specialty at Harry’s Bar (where it is still available) and then moved to the Hotel Cipriani which Giuseppe built in 1956 to cater to the affluent international traveller. They make them all over Venice but the one at the hotel Cipriani (pronounced ‘chipriani’) is the most memorable. You don’t need to stay at the hotel to step into their bar for a Bellini. Simply hop aboard their private boat from Saint Mark’s Square, which will whisk you away to the hotel and back, allowing you to relish the Bellini in its birthplace.
3. Try the seafood sensation - Fritto Misto…
You must try this local delight, which typically consists of fish, prawns and squid rings, coated in a simple batter of flour and beer or soda and deep-fried. It is available everywhere from a humble bar to a fancy restaurant.
Fritto Misto and (right) Prosciutto Crudo Courtesy Karen Anand
4. …And a plate of Prosciutto Crudo
Venture further into the Venetian world of culinary delights with a plate of Prosciutto Crudo—a delicately cured ham also known as Parma ham. Although this thinly sliced ham is not just from Parma but from many regions in Italy, the ones from this region are particularly sweet and melt in the mouth. Ask for San Daniele.
5. Embrace the romance of a gondola ride
If you love the water and the romance of a gondola ride, plan your trip to coincide with one of Venice’s famous races Shutterstock
I know it’s cheesy but you have to do it once. I was lucky enough to have a Venetian neighbour with his own gondola, who used to take us for rides not only down the Grand Canal but also through the labyrinth of smaller side canals. If, like me, you love the water and boats, plan your trip to coincide with either the Vogalonga—an end-of-May non-competitive race featuring rowing boats and gondolas—or the September Regata.
6. Visit an art exhibition
An exhibition of San Giorgio glass at Cini Foundation Arts Centre Courtesy Karen Anand
Take advantage of the city’s fabulous exhibitions, many of which are free to explore. The Cini Foundation Arts Centre on the tiny island of San Giorgio Maggiore, situated opposite Saint Mark’s Square and easily accessible by boat, is one such venue. Additionally, Palazzo Grassi and the Punta della Dogana, both acquired and restored by the renowned French millionaire and art collector François Pinault, are two must-see galleries in Venice. The famous Art Biennale takes place every alternate year while the Architecture Biennale graces the city in the odd years. These, in addition to Venice’s own museums housed in fantastic palaces, are, I often feel, more interesting than the exhibitions themselves!
7. Lose yourself in Venice’s enchanting alleyways
Walking through Venice's narrow alleyways can lead to surprising gems like this curio shop Courtesy Karen Anand
Don’t worry, Google Maps will get you home but allow yourself to get lost in the myriad of Venice’s little lanes and alleys, some so narrow that only a single person can walk through at a time. It feels like you’ve stepped into a movie scene.
8. Visit Caffe Florian, a historic gem in St. Mark’s Square
Caffe Florian
Step into Caffe Florian, one of Italy’s oldest caffes, established in the early 18th century. Its iconic status is matched by its fabulous location in the middle of St. Mark’s Square. You’ll be serenaded by a classical quartet playing outdoors in the evenings. Venetians themselves frequently visit Florian for a coffee, which they drink at the bar inside, rather than paying double the price for a table. If you want to people-watch, there is no better place. There are three or four other cafes on Saint Mark’s but none as special as Caffe Florian.
9. Go hat-shopping
Shopping for hats from street stalls and boutiques is one of the small joys of a Venetian holiday Courtesy Karen Anand
Venice, for some reason, has some magnificent hat shops selling all sorts of hats that will catch your eye. In particular, the local felt beret, fedora with a rim and the classic straw Panama hat. Prices for these stylish hats range from around 10 euros at street stalls to several hundred euros in upscale shops.
10. Experience La Fenice, Venice’s opera house
The 18th-century opera house La Fenice Wikimedia Commons
La Fenice is the opera house of Venice built originally in the 18th century. Despite enduring multiple fires, it underwent meticulous restoration in 2004, though some say the restoration work, in particular the varnish, is too bright. Gold and ornate, it is one of the most famous opera houses in Europe and has witnessed the premieres of numerous operas by composers like Rossini, Verdi, and Bellini. Tickets are available well in advance online. Arrive early and don’t miss the opportunity to have a spritz at the bar before the performance.