I still remember my first solo flight. I was barely seven years old, and was in the care of the Indian Airlines crew till my flight touched down in Chennai. I took off from Thiruvananthapuram, India’s southernmost capital. It’s just one of the many memories that I cherish in a city that I still call Trivandrum.
It was here that I probably caught my first sunset. My uncle would drive me to a sunset point near Kovalam. I would walk the dog and watch the sun go down as he enjoyed his sundowner. These memories from summer vacations still play out each time I’m back in a city that doesn’t receive the same attention or buzz as Kerala’s commercial capital, Kochi. I checked into Thiruvananthapuram’s newest luxury hotel, Hyatt Regency Trivandrum, during my last visit. The hotel’s concierge helped me unravel a couple of new facets of an underrated city that is still largely associated with its world-class resorts in the Kovalam area.
Local flavours
The rocket dosa at Arya Nivas and (right) the ‘boli’ and ‘paal ada’ at Maha Boli Ashwin Rajagopalan
Don’t ever leave Thiruvananthapuram without sampling the city’s best-known dish. Most locals will point to Hotel Rahmaniya, a Trivandrum institution since 1949, for its fiery Kethel’s chicken, the Trivandrum version of KFC chicken with its secret masala. I’d also suggest a late breakfast at Good Morning Hotel that serves just one dish – a flavourful meat roast with a flaky parotta. I set out to hit more grab-and-go spots after a refreshing Sulaimani tea at Good Morning. I got my sugar rush for the day at Maha Boli in the bustling Pazhavangadi where they serve one of the city’s best versions of boli and paal ada. Piping hot paal ada, Kerala’s best-known payasam or kheer, is poured over a hot boli aka polo or puran poli in Maharashtra — a sweet, dal-stuffed roti. It doesn’t get sweeter than this. Trivandrum’s space heritage (Thumba, one of India’s first rocket launching stations, was set up here in 1963) comes to the fore at Arya Nivas. The crispy ‘rocket’ dosa is a local legend.
Fine dining
Luxury properties by the Leela (in picture) and Taj make Kovalam a sought-after destination Ashwin Rajagopalan
Quite a few travellers head straight to the Kovalam area (the Leela and Taj operate fine resorts in Kovalam; stunning sunsets guaranteed) from the airport. They barely leave their luxury abodes unless it’s a trip to hipster cafes and eateries like German Bakery and Beatles Café and Grill house where the fresh catch of the day and panoramic sunsets are a given.
Villa Maya and (right) Oriental Kitchen at Hyatt Regency Trivandrum Ashwin Rajagopalan
My favourite dinner venue in the city is Villa Maya. This was once an 18th-century Dutch-style villa that enjoyed the patronage of the royal house of Travancore. It’s a fine example of a successful restoration that has transformed it into a romantic destination where local flavours vie for your attention with Instagram-friendly international plates. Oriental Kitchen, the Asian diner at the Hyatt Regency Trivandrum is the new hub for the city’s well-heeled diners. The restaurant’s camera friendly chefs put up quite a show at the city’s first teppanyaki grill.
Culture hub
The Padmanabhaswamy Temple Ahwin Rajagopalan
The status of Kerala’s cultural capital often sparks fierce debates between residents of Thrissur in central Kerala and Thiruvananthapuram. One of my endearing memories of the city is visiting the Shree Padmanabhaswamy Temple with my paternal grandmother. The city takes its name from this temple — The City of Lord Ananta (a form of Lord Vishnu). Not much has changed since those evenings spent with my grandmother. It’s easy to find your zen moment even when the temple is crowded. This temple is unique for its intricate fusion of Chera and Dravidian architecture and like most temples in Kerala adheres to a dress code.
Napier Museum Wikimedia Commons
Do make time to visit the Ranga Vilasam Palace Art Gallery that is housed in the Ranga Vilasam Palace that was constructed by Maharaja Swati Tirunal, the monarch-musician in 1839. The city’s other cultural landmark is the Napier Museum (best known for its ivory carvings), a fine example of Indo-Saracenic architecture that dates back to 1880.
Hidden Gem
The Poovar backwater cruise takes you past a variety of landscapes and you’re likely to pass by local fishermen with their nets around sunset Ashwin Rajagopalan
There are Kerala backwater cruises and then there’s the Poovar cruise. This backwater cruise was a pleasant surprise, given that I consider myself a local insider of sorts. While there are quite a few backwater cruise experiences across Kerala including the famous Vembanad lake, the one that commences in Poovar offers a variety of landscapes.
A Poovar cruise is one of the hidden gems to experience when travelling to Thiruvananthapuram Ashwin Rajagopalan
Your boat first scythes through a mangrove forest and then passes through a large backwater area before you arrive on a pristine beach for a short stop where you can wet your feet. You’re likely to pass local fishermen with their large nets just before sunset. It’s one of the many experiences that allowed me to experience a whole new side of a city that holds a special place in my heart.