Kanika Goyal was back at New York Fashion with ‘Aether Leak’, her SS’24 collection. Relaxed, easy, young and statement best describes the vibe. Kanika later chatted with t2 about the inspiration, New York and her process.
The collection, as usual, looks very cool. Can you take us through the inspirations? Tell us about the name ‘Aether Leak’...
Thank you! So glad you like it. The ‘Aether Leak’ collection delves into the intriguing space between the tangible and the intangible, where the concepts of the infinite, otherworldly dimensions converge with the earthly transitions. Keeping the cosmic inspiration in mind, the colour palette gracefully transitions from the brief haze of dusty pastels to the deep, mysterious shades of the universe, ranging from muted hues to iridescent, infinite shades. The motifs represent the fleeting moments, the potential for transformation, and the delicate interplay between chaos and order. The collection employs gradient techniques to evoke the illusion of shifting dimensions. Airy fabrics drape like a celestial mist. Structured garments incorporate metallic embellishments.
Every designer has a process. What’s yours?
The process is very seamless and organic. We usually start ideating for the next season soon after we wrap up the season before that. Usually, it’s an emotion that we want to tap into for that particular season. It starts from a much broader thought and then we refine it more as we dive deeper into it. I’m grateful that my design teammates are on a similar wavelength and everyone is in sync from the beginning till the end. During the initial ideation and research, we keep in mind the styles that are signature to the brand and also the ones that have been received well in the previous seasons and evolve from that.
We experiment with different techniques that we want to explore every season. We are constantly (irrespective of seasons) working on print and surface direction for both international and primary markets.
We do get influenced by the culture and the current scenario of questioning everything and in return, we try to influence and encourage the idea of being outspoken.
In this day and age when digital culture is shaping the youth, Internet and social media have profoundly changed the way we consume, evaluate, choose and behave. We are just trying to create a narrative that appeals to this new mindset, aiming to reflect the mind-over-matter approach.
Kanika Goyal
What was like returning to New York?
This is my fourth time returning to NYFW and I’ve of course visited the city countless times. It’s such an electric, vibrant city and always such fun for me to visit. Additionally, representing India at NYFW is a significant honour and one I always want to remain mindful of. I hope to return every year and continue to be inspired by the city which is a great melting pot of different cultures and always has something compelling to offer.
You have studied in New York and you have showcased several seasons there too now. How has the city changed and evolved for you? And, has it become a part of your subconscious?
It’s always interesting to be back in New York at different stages of my journey. When I was there at Parsons, I was just so excited to be in the city and keen to learn just about everything. As I moved into my internships and jobs with some of the most prolific designers, the city opened up in new ways, as I understood how it’s such an important hub for some of the most amazing, global design talent. Now, it continues to be one of my favourite destinations, a melting pot of cultures where people from around the world congregate - it’s a liberating, exciting place to be.
Tell us about your favourite things to do in New York...
There is never a dull moment in New York. I remember we used to – and still love going to the MET (The Metropolitan Museum of Art), The MoMA (Museum of Modern Art), the Guggenheim, and there are so many events and experiential exhibits that keep happening year-round – you never feel that there is nothing to do in the city. I also love trying new restaurants/bars- my favourite classics being ABC Kitchen for a nice meal, Sant Ambroeus for coffee and Le Bain for drinks. Even simply walking through the streets - there is always something to see.
Yours is such a signature label. What would be your advice for all the budding designers who want to develop a unique voice?
I feel for anyone who is aiming to venture into the fashion industry or to be an entrepreneur in general, it is important to be disciplined, to be consistent and for one to be ready to put in the hard work. It is important to be passionate and authentic about what you do, to have a clear vision and to have in-depth knowledge of the industry. Talent alone won’t take you far if you aren’t ready to put in the hours.
Who are your favourites when it comes to an original voice?
Prada, Dries Van Noten, The Row, Marni, Simone Rocha, Dion Lee and Bottega Veneta, lately.