For most people, south Indian food is synonymous with dishes like dosas, idlis, uttapams and maybe appams. However, one seldom thinks of non-vegetarian dishes in the context of food from the south. Non-vegetarian south Indian dishes have gained popularity only recently and among the states to feature broadly in the category is Kerala.
There is a variety of fish, chicken, mutton and beef dishes in Keralan cuisine, and each has its unique flavour. The use of coconut milk and curry leaves is common and gives a subtle yet distinct flavour to the dishes, the use of spices and level of spiciness varies with each preparation.
My Kolkata picked three recipes featuring fish, mutton and beef that are popular among the Malayali families in Kolkata
Fish Molee
Meen molee has a light, coconut-based gravy and is made with fish like surmai, rohu or catla Shutterstock
Fish Molee or meen molee has a light, coconut-based gravy and is made with fish like surmai, even rohu or catla, and usually served with rice. The history of this dish is said to date back to the 15th century the Portuguese settled in India for trade. The spicy food was intolerable for the European palate and that gave birth to this flavourful yet light fish recipe. It is said that a woman named Molee toned down the spice level and served fish curry to Portuguese settlers.
Ingredients
- Surmai/rohu/catla (peti and gada): 5-6 pieces
- Coconut milk: 2 cups
- Grated coconut: 1 cup
- Coconut oil for cooking
- Cloves: 3-4
- Green cardamom: 3-4 pods
- Cinnamon: 1 inch
- Turmeric powder: 1 teaspoon
- Coriander powder: 1 teaspoon
- Cumin powder: 1 teaspoon
- Pepper powder: ½ teaspoon
- Curry leaves: 8-10 leaves
- Onion: 1 big, thinly sliced
- Ginger paste: 1 teaspoon
- Green chillies: 2-3 pieces
- Mustard seeds: 1 teaspoon
- Salt to taste
Method
- Marinate the fish with turmeric and salt. Remember to add less salt if you are using a seawater fish like surmai
- In a pan, heat coconut oil and fry the fish till golden brown and set aside
- In the same oil, add mustard seeds, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom and the thinly sliced onions and fry until soft
- Now add curry leaves and fry till the aroma is released
- Add the ginger paste and fry in medium heat
- Then add salt, cumin, coriander and pepper powders and mix well. Sprinkle some water if the mix dries out
- Turn the flame low, add grated fresh coconut and fry well
- Add the coconut milk a little at a time and keep stirring until the spices mix well
- When it comes to a boil, slowly add the fried fish and cook for about 5 minutes
- Add slit green chillies and boil for another five minutes
- You can garnish with some grated coconut and curry leaves and serve hot with steamed rice
Mutton Molee
Mutton Molee Shutterstock
Indian mutton dishes are usually associated with rich, spicy, flavourful gravies. The Mutton Molee is an exception on the spicy front — well cooked, soft and succulent pieces of mutton cooked coconut milk make a dish that is light on spices yet packed with flavour. This is a family recipe that has found a place on the dining table on special occasions. Often enjoyed with rice or Malabar parotta, this dish is a perfect culinary love story for Kolkatans who love mutton and south Indian food.
Ingredients
- Mutton: 1kg
- Coconut milk: 3-4 cups
- Freshly grated coconut: 2 tablespoon
- Curry leaves: 8-10
- Onion: 4 big, sliced
- Ginger-garlic paste: 2 tablespoon
- Clove: 8
- Green cardamom: 8 pods
- Cinnamon: 2 inch
- Cumin powder: 1 teaspoon
- Coriander powder: 1 teaspoon
- Nutmeg powder: 1 teaspoon
- Pepper powder: 1 teaspoon
- Coconut oil for cooking
- Green chillies
- Garam masala: 1 teaspoon
- Salt to taste
Method
- Marinate the mutton pieces with one tablespoon of ginger-garlic paste and some salt for at least 30 minutes
- In a heavy bottom pan, heat coconut oil and add curry leaves, cloves, cinnamon and cardamom
- Now add the sliced onions and fry until golden brown
- Add the remaining ginger-garlic paste, cumin, coriander and nutmeg powder
- Add grated coconut and fry until the oil separates
- Now add the mutton pieces and cook well in the spices till it releases water. Continue cooking and mixing until the water dries up
- When the water dries up, add half of the total coconut milk and bring to a boil
- At this point one can shift to a pressure cooker or just cook it under a closed lid
- In the pressure cooker, open the lid after two whistles, and add the remaining coconut milk
- If cooking in the pan, add the remaining coconut milk after the gravy thickens
- When the mutton softens, add the slit green chillies and cook for another 5-10 minutes
- Turn off the flame and sprinkle garam masala powder and close lid
- Serve hot with rice or Malabar parotta
Beef Ularthiyathu (Kerala beef fry)
Beef Ularthiyathu (Kerala beef fry) Shutterstock
Kerala-style beef fry or Beef Ularthiyathu with flaky parotta is delicacy that is often part of Christian weddings in the state. Little boneless pieces of beef cooked in spices with chopped coconut will win your heart, especially on a cold wintery night.
Ingredients
- Boneless beef chunks: 500gm
- Chopped coconut: 1 cup
- Curry leaves: 10 leaves
- Onions: 2 big, chopped
- Ginger-garlic paste: 2 tablespoon
- Kashmiri red chilli powder: 1 tablespoon
- Red chillies: 2-3
- Garam masala powder: 1 teaspoon
- Pepper powder: 1 teaspoon
- Cumin seeds (whole): 1 teaspoon
- Coriander powder: 1 teaspoon
- Turmeric powder: 1 teaspoon
- Tamarind paste: 2 tablespoon
- Salt
Method
- Chop the boneless meat into bite size pieces and pat dry
- Marinate with salt, turmeric and ginger-garlic paste for at least 30 minutes
- In a heavy bottom iron wok, heat coconut oil and add curry leaves, red chillies, cumin seeds, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon and coconut pieces. Fry until coconut turns red
- Now add the chopped onions and fry until golden brown
- Add ginger-garlic paste and cook well until the oil separates from the spice mix
- Now add the coriander powder, pepper powder, Kashmiri red chilli powder and tamarind paste and mix well
- Now add the meat chunks and cook in the spices until water is released and dried up
- Keep hot water ready while the meat is cooking
- Transfer the contents into a pressure cooker and add a cup of hot water
- Let it cook for 3-4 whistles. The meat should be tender and the gravy should be thick
- Add garam masala powder in the end and serve with flaky Malabar parotta
Tip: You can use raw papaya juice to marinate the beef. This will tenderize the meat and save cooking time.