As the monsoon makes an entrance, shiny fresh hilsas adorn the fish markets in Kolkata and tables of Bengali households and restaurants. For the ilish-loving Bengalis, Kolkata markets source hilsa from the Bay of Bengal or from the Ganga. A substantial catch is also imported from Bangladesh and the Bengalis look forward to the delicate flavours of Padma ilish. No matter the variant, there is a hilsa preparation at home on the weekends or even weekdays, depending on if you get your hands on a good catch.
In Bengali homes, the hilsa is savoured in myriad ways, from the simple ilish bhaja (fried hilsa) to begun diye ilish jhol (hilsa curry with brinjal and potatoes) and shorshe ilish (mustard hilsa) made a few different ways, along with other preparations like ilish tel-dim (fish oil and roe). The ‘queen of fish’ as hilsa is fondly referred to in Bengal is best enjoyed when cooked in a traditional style.
Monsoon is hilsa season in Bengal
Keeping this in mind, Oh! Calcutta’s Hilsa Festival has about seven traditionally prepared hilsa dishes on the menu like Begun Kalo Jeere Diye Ilish, Ilish Paturi, Kumro Pata Aam Acharer Ilish, Ilish Bhaja and Bhapa Ilish. For this ilish season, the Bengali cuisine restaurant’s chef Kingshuk Kundu shared the recipe of Ilish Bhapa for My Kolkata readers.
Chef Kingshuk Kundu
Oh! Calcutta’s Ilish Bhapa
“The traditional Ilish Bhapa reminds me of my childhood when my mother and grandmother used to cook the dish at home. It is an old recipe, but very unique as it is steamed in a banana leaf and the raw fish is cooked directly without frying. This keeps the flavours of the fish intact. It is easy to make at home and is ready in an hour,” said the chef.
Ingredients
- Hilsa (whole): 1kg 200gm (6pcs)
- Salt to taste
- Curd: 250 gm
- Mustard oil: 50ml
- Green chilli: 50gm
- Coconut paste: 50gm
- Mustard paste: 100gm
- Turmeric powder: 5gm
- Banana leaf: 2
- Kalo jeere (nigella seeds): 1gm
Method
- Marinate hilsa with salt and turmeric powder
- Make a paste with curd, turmeric, ground mustard, green chilli paste, coconut paste, salt, and mustard oil, and marinate the hilsa pieces properly with the above paste
- On a tray, layer the banana leaf and place all the coated hilsa pieces properly, then pour and spread the remaining mixture on top
- Check the seasoning and add slit green chillies. Then drizzle 25 ml of mustard oil, and sprinkle the kalo jeera on top
- Cover the same with the remaining banana leaf and put the tray in a steamer for 30 minutes
- Serve hot with steam rice
Tips from the chef
- Buy fresh fish from the market. For a fresh catch, check that the body is firm and the eyes of the fish are clear
- Hilsa weighing more than 1kg is recommended
- Do not fry the fish for this recipe, as raw fish turns out to be tender, juicy and soft when cooked
- To enjoy the ultimate flavour of the fish, pair it up with plain steamed rice