A popular name in the Kolkata culinary scene with an equally popular cafe, chef Urvika Kanoi set her sights on a Mumbai eatery in 2021. What came easily to her on the home turf with the city eager to devour her every offering at The Daily Cafe proved to be a little tricky in Mumbai. “What was a breeze back home at The Daily Cafe took a bit of figuring out in Mumbai,” admits Kanoi. “While the love and support was there, and Mumbai patrons are wonderful, it certainly took a little time to find my footing and the food I wanted to serve.”
Setting up in Mumbai proved more challenging than she expected simply because of the vast number of restaurants across the city which became indirect competition simply because a diner was spoilt for choice. The culinary landscape in the financial capital is a game of survival of the fittest. Despite that, chef Urvika persevered, carving out a niche for her restaurant and food.
From pasta to pork carnitas
Café Duco in Bandra is one of the very few cafes that focuses on food stretching across Latin America. A far cry from her pasta and pancakes at The Daily Cafe but not a stretch from the food she served at her first opening Bodega Cantina Y Bar (remember the global cuisine restaurant on Park Street, Year 2017?). One she realises was a wee bit ahead of its time but was another beloved restaurant that sadly succumbed to the pressure of demonetisation.
With Café Duco, chef Urvika has given a Tex Mex-obsessed city a real Latin American flavour with her signature dishes like the soft shell tacos (pork carnitas and the fried fish tacos) Cubano Sandwich, Elotte and Chilaquiles, to name a few. It took a little understanding of the discerning palates but in the nearly two-and-a- a-half years of operations, Café Duco has garnered a loyal fan base in Mumbai’s bustling food scene.
Marwari roots, Latin beats
A Marwari girl from Kolkata running a European-styled café now serving South American fare seems like the beginning of a joke where I’m not quite sure what the punchline is going to be. She laughs and says, “I know, I know, but this cuisine and its punchy flavours are what appeals to me so strongly that no matter what I end up doing, this is the food I want to cook”.
Having travelled extensively as a child and her grandfather being the consul general of Chile in India, chef Urvika has been exposed to these flavours and dishes early in her life and has developed a deep relationship with them. The intense punchy flavours, as she calls it, tremendously appealed to her. “The punchier it gets, the happier I get; this rules my palate and my cooking technique,” she grins.
With a positive response from Mumbai chef Urvika has taken her Duco menu and showcased at a number of events including bridal shows and music festivals as part of their food offering and it’s always been well received. “Pop-ups at events and festivals are something I’ve thrown myself into since Mumbai has a thriving event scene and it’s a chance to take my food to a larger audience. It’s the best feeling when diners hunt for us and come back for more having tasted our food and then trace us back to the café.”
Behind the scenes
Amidst the hustle and bustle of Mumbai's fast-paced culinary scene, chef Urvika Kanoi reflects on the challenges she faced when launching her venture in the city. One of the primary struggles she encountered was maintaining consistency with her staff, a stark difference from the dedicated ownership she experienced in Kolkata. “The team dynamics have been a bit challenging here. And it took me a while to come to terms with the high turnover rate and realise it isn’t personal, especially when every other restaurateur is going through the same issues,” she says.
With Café Duco, chef Urvika faced new challenges, but the big idea was building a small but encouraging community
However, the big plus side of working in a city like Mumbai is the small but encouraging community she’s built. “I realised everyone is ready to help, everyone’s a phone call away,” she says. “I’ve had the best support system from fellow chefs, journalists, writers, bloggers, and industry folks. They’re all rooting for you and this sense of everyone rooting for everyone is such an amazing feeling.”
Expansion plans
Despite the challenges and triumphs, Café Duco has thrived where many restaurants have died a swift and silent death. Looking ahead, she has plans on expanding Café Duco. “Mumbai has a serious space crunch and, unfortunately, the current location limits what I can do and what I want to showcase,” she laments. “But I’m optimistic and on the lookout for a larger venue where I can make everything in-house like I do at The Daily Cafe in Kolkata.” Her vision includes a bakery space, fermenting stations, a full-fledged bar and an expansive menu. Add to that, more pop-ups and special dinners in other cities and restaurants.
She also launched a Café Duco cloud kitchen in Kolkata in December 2023 after she hosted a small pop-up and realised the food was well received despite no advertising. “Honestly, it’s so new that it doesn’t even have its own page on social media,” she adds, but the word has quickly spread, reflecting Kolkata’s eagerness to taste the flavours she’s perfected in Mumbai over the past few years.