A string of Lap Cheong sausages is laid out to dry like a ginger cat basking in the morning sun. Puffs of steam bellow out of stainless steel containers revealing translucent parcels — dim sums, ready to be dunked into dragon-worthy chilli sauce. Food hawkers frenziedly beckon morning visitors to their stalls, pointing at little red stools carelessly strewn around the narrow, chaotic street dotted sellers of fresh fowl and fish. In a bowl of fish ball soup, little greens of spring onion float about like first-time visitors to Tiretta Bazar.
Tiretta Bazar, which is India’s oldest Chinatown, was once familiar ground for Hakka and Cantonese settlers in the late 18th century. Today, Sun Yat Sen Street, named after the Chinese statesman, is best known for its breakfast bazaar, with shops setting up by 6am and wrapping up in three hours when supplies are exhausted.
Janice Lee, third-generation owner of Kolkata-based Chinese sauce brand Pou Chong KIM, grew up in the area. She takes My Kolkata through her top breakfast eats in Tiretta Bazar.
Bobby Young’s stall and (right) their shumai Ashim Paul
Shumai by Bobby Young
The origins of the traditional Chinese dumpling shumai or siu mai can be traced to inner Mongolia. Different varieties of this steamed dumpling exist in India, Japan, Indonesia, Philippines, and other parts of China.
“At Kolkata’s Tiretti Bazaar, the shumai are flower-shaped momos filled with either pork, prawn or fish, along with diced vegetables, mixed Chinese spices and sauces. They are then wrapped in thin wrappers made of wheat flour and steamed. The best way to have these is with a red spicy chilli sauce,” shares Janice.
She recommends Shumai from Bobby Young who sets up shop in Tiretta Bazaar between 6am-9am everyday. The lady carries on the tradition led by her mother and the fishball soup served here is her grandmother’s recipe. A plate of Shumai is available for Rs 50.
Fun fact: Did you know Tiretta Bazar gets its name from Edward Tiretta, an Italian immigrant from Venice?
Steamed Wontons or Chinese Singhara from Tung Nam Eating House
Steamed wontons or Chinese Shingara at Tung Nam Eating House Ashim Paul
The old-school Chinese eatery Tung Nam Eating House is easy to miss in the overcrowded Poddar Court area. A blue-and-yellow signboard marks its discreet entrance. The family-run establishment serves a range of dishes from the lesser-known Mixed Da Lu Mian to the famous Wantons and Chilli Pork.
“The steamed wontons, lovingly called Chinese Shingara, are fried dumplings that originated from northern China and are filled with seasoned meat after which they are steamed to perfection,” says Janice, who recommends a plate of these delicacies from the eatery, priced at Rs 190.
Chilli Pork at Tung Nam Ashim Paul
Another favourite (though not for breakfast) is the Chilli Pork for Rs 230. “It’s made up of sliced char siu red pork with spicy chillies tossed with secret seasoning and an aromatic light soya sauce,” she says. Ask any medical student from the nearby Calcutta Medical College, and they are likely to share a memorable moment involving this fiery plate of pork from Tung Nam Eating House.
Kamla Puri
Kamla puris in the making Ashim Paul
We’ve heard of Pani Puri, Sev Puri and Bhel Puri but what you get in Kolkata’s old Chinatown is Kamla Puri. It’s hard to trace its origin but in a city where Bengali kochuri-aloo sabji and north Indian puri-aloo do equally well, it’s not surprising to find this version.
The tiny puris are stuffed with an alu filling, and served with a bhaji Ashim Paul
“Kamla Puri are cutely-done tiny puris with a special alu filling. It is one of the most renowned things to try for breakfast here. The puris are served with a special green coloured bhaji, whose recipe is a safeguarded secret,” shares Lee. A plate of three Kamla Puris and bhaji costs Rs 10.
Chaang Yaan Paan (select stalls, weekends only)
The sweet Chaan Yaan Paan has a red bean filling Janice Lee
Only seasoned foodies know of the Chaang Yaan Paan at the breakfast market in Tiretta Bazar. “Chaang Yaan Paan, which translates to ‘green, round and flat’, tastes like a mini-pancake with red bean filling. It is considered a healthy eating-out option for the Chinese residents of Kolkata,” says Janice. You can get yours for Rs 50 at the street-food breakfast market by inquiring in a few stalls. It’s sold only on the weekends.
BBQ Char Siu Baos from Pou Chong's Ming Dimsums
Char Siu Pork Bao from Pou Chong’s Ming Dimsum Ashim Paul
This one’s not located in Tiretta Bazar but is close to Janice’s heart. In 2018, Pou Chong launched Pou Chong’s Ming Dimsum (located at 104, Rajdanga Golpark, near Kasba and Acropolis mall) that serves Hakka snacks and specialities such as BBQ Baos, Chilli Pork, Wantons, Siu Mai, Momos, Jumbo Tempura Prawns etc.
The Pou Chong store at Kasba Ashim Paul
“Pou Chong BBQ Char Siu Baos are steamed buns with red pork filling, leaving you with sweet and spicy notes,” said Lee. You can have a taste of this Hakka Chinese breakfast delicacy for Rs 75 at the Kasba outlet or order them via Swiggy and Zomato.