An aroma that unfailingly engulfs the mouth of Hungerford Street is the sweet scent of kesar. More precisely, the sweet scent of Arun Tea Stall’s kesar chai — a chai for every hour and every season. The man behind this intoxicating aroma is Arun Kumar Yadav.
Arun's story is one of sheer determination.
Arun Kumar Yadav at Arun Tea Stall (near The Saturday Club back gate), established in 2005 Arijit Sen
“My father used to work for Tewari Brothers and I was always in awe of the name they had created for themselves. My dream, ever since I was five years old, was to do the same thing. I dreamt of doing something that would be as widely appreciated, all over this city,” says Arun, 39, the proud owner of Arun Tea Stall.
Today, Arun is fast becoming a household name for many tea lovers in Kolkata.
There’s never a moment when a crowd isn’t gathered around Arun's stall Amit Datta
His life in Kolkata began on the pavement opposite where Arun Tea Stall stands today (25/1, Shakespeare Sarani, near The Saturday Club’s Hungerford Street entrance). He’s spent many an evening studying on a jute mat under the same street light under which his tea stall stands tall. “My father brought me and my four siblings to Kolkata in 1988 so we could study,” says Arun, who was born in Madhubani, Bihar. “We had no money for a home. We lived, ate, slept, bathed, and studied on this very footpath,” he says with a smile of reminiscence.
Arun’s father, Rajdeo Yadav, left Tewari Brothers in the same year and began selling tea on Shakespeare Sarani to support his family. All he had was Rs 150 in savings, a kettle, and a pair of legs that took him across the length and breadth of the locality, quenching the thirst of passers-by with his unbeatable blend of chai.
Kesar chai is the most sipped cup of tea Amit Datta
Arun and his brothers studied in a government school, Shree Gandhi Vidya Mandir on Outram Road, till they were ten years old and then shifted to Khalsa High School in Bhowanipore, from where they graduated. Arun then got an undergraduate degree in commerce from South City College in Gariahat. He didn't have money for bus fare, so he would walk to Gariahat every day.
Arun with his small army. Arijit Sen
Shortly after graduating, Arun set up Arun Tea Stall. “My father got an opportunity to buy this land in 2005 (the space where ATS is located) for Rs 6 lakh, and with a Rs 5,000 monthly rent, we’d have a 99-year lease. We had only Rs 2.5 lakh saved at the time. So we sold our land in our hometown and borrowed from friends and family,” says Arun.
He borrowed as little as five rupees from anyone who was willing to bet on him. “I knew that if something happens, I’d be left with nothing. But this was my dream and I was determined,” he says.
Arun’s younger brother, Vinod Kumar Yadav, runs point on day-to-day operations at the Hungerford Street tea stall Amit Datta
When Arun first set up his shop, he had a lot of competitors. He relied on the feedback of his customers to improve his product. The first three months went in perfecting his blend, ensuring it was spot on. “I took a lot of feedback from my customers and that’s how my tea reached the level it is at today,” explains Arun. He’d ask every customer what their tastes and preferences were and incorporate them. Turns out, Kolkata loves a rich, milky tea that’s been on the boil for hours on end.
Kapil Kumar Yadav, the famous 'chai mistri' of Arun Tea Stall Arijit Sen
Arun’s younger brother, Vinod Kumar Yadav, who works with him at ATS, tells us that Arun has a special recipe for his tea — one that no one knows but him. “I use four different types of tea leaves to create a special blend,” reveals Arun. He also adds a spice mix at the end, that gives the tea its robust flavour.
While Arun was at the helm of Arun Tea Stall, his father continued to sell tea across Shakespeare Sarani. “My father’s venture was going well, so we didn’t want to change anything about that. He still sells tea and samosas,” smiles Arun.
Bread toast and malai toast are mainstays, accompanying every cup of chai! Amit Datta
Slowly, as business picked up, Arun added more items to his menu — both sweet and savoury. “One day I saw that kesar is used in a lot of food, especially mithai. It tastes really good, so why not try it with my tea,” says Arun. He began by simply sprinkling a little on the top of the chai, to add a unique taste. And it was an instant hit. “We then started charging separately for kesar chai, and over the years it has become so popular that many people in Kolkata know my tea stall as Kesaria Tea Stall!”
During the pandemic, Arun introduced special packaging that keeps tea hot for up to 30 mins Amit Datta
Today, ATS sells over 3,000 cups of tea every day. Arun’s business has seen exponential growth — what began at Rs 3.50 a bhanr, now sells for Rs 20.
There’s never a moment when a crowd hasn’t gathered around his stall....standing on the same pavement he slept on, once upon a time.
A dream come true, indeed.
Amit Datta