If you’ve watched classics like Sharey Chuattar and Basanta Bilap, you already have a sense of what a mess bari is like. Famous literary characters such as Premendra Mitra’s Ghanada from Ghanada series and Bibhutibhushan Bandyopadhyay’s Apu in Aparajito, were also sketched as mess bari residents. Even the creator of Byomkesh Bakshi, Sharadindu Bandyopadhyay, lived in one during his legal practice in Kolkata — often drawing inspiration from his experences for his stories.
A haven for working professionals and students
The entrance to Mahal, the pice hotel in College Street
The mess bari culture, which thrived in north Kolkata around World War I, usually provided long-term accommodation for working men and students. But as living standards evolved, the mess bari gradually faded into oblivion.
Nestled near Boipara (College Street) in Kolkata, this particular once-thriving mess bari gave rise to the popular Mahal Pice Hotel. Originally established in 1917 as the Presidency Boarding House at 66 Mahatma Gandhi Road by Nandadulal Dutta, the space provided lodging for office workers and students pursuing higher studies in the city.
Famous residents who left their mark
The mess bari gained fame because of its famous boarders, one of them being Sharadindu Bandyopadhyay. Filmmaker Dibakar Banerjee even featured this historic boarding house in his film, Detective Byomkesh Bakshy. Renowned Bengali poet Jibanananda Das was also a frequent guest here, whenever he visited Kolkata.
From its origins as a mess bari to its evolution into the famous Mahal Pice Hotel, this place has seen history unfold.
Keeping the legacy alive
Sandeep Dutta, the present-generation owner of the boarding house and Mahal
Sandeep Dutta, the present-generation owner of the boarding house, shared an interesting anecdote about Jibanananda. “We had two types of boarders — temporary and permanent. Permanent boarders paid rent regardless of their stay and had a fixed room, while temporary boarders paid only when they stayed, with no fixed room. Jibanananda Das always insisted on getting the same room when he visited Kolkata, often leading to disputes with my grandfather,” Sandeep explained, adding, “That time, boarders used to share rooms and washrooms, but today people want more privacy.”
Changing times and the decline of the mess ‘bari’ culture in Kolkata
The kitchen area of Mahal
After Nandadulal Dutta’s passing, his nephew, Nripendranath Dutta, took over the mess bari, but as the culture faded, the number of boarders dwindled, and the business nearly shut down. Today, the mess bari stands nearly vacant, with only one or two elderly boarders remaining.
Biswajit Dutta, a regular customer, who has been visiting the pice hotel for the last 22 years
In 1991, Sandeep Dutta opened Mahal, a pice hotel, on the ground floor of this mess bari, utilising its kitchen space. “I wanted to preserve the heritage,” Sandeep said, adding, “The pice hotel keeps the place going while also maintaining its legacy.” Mahal is known for its homely food, drawing in crowds at lunchtime. Biswajit Dutta, a regular customer at the pice hotel, said, “I’ve been coming here for the last 22 years. Every day, I have my meal at 10.30am and head to work. I’ve never had any health issues. The food is homely, and the place is clean, unlike many other pice hotels in Kolkata.”
Homely meals served with love
The menu and the items served at Mahal
Mahal has two entrances — one from 66 MG Road at the Presidency Boarding House gate, and the other from a lane at 6/3 Ramanath Majumdar Street. Mahal’s structure mostly remains unchanged, retaining its traditional look with a fresh coat of paint. Meals are served on banana leaves, with wooden tables reminiscent of classic pice hotel decor. The menu is displayed on a whiteboard, with no thali system. A typical meal, comprising rice, dal, vegetable curry, fish and chutney, costs around Rs 270, though prices vary based on the dishes and fish chosen. Mahal is open from 10.30am - 4pm, reopening from 7pm - 10pm. You can also order their food via delivery apps.