Darshan Shah is a ‘textile innovator’ with a purpose. She talks passionately about textiles and has ‘always been invested in the principle of handloom’. Over the last three decades, Darshan has nurtured her dreams in Weavers Studio, an artisanal gold mine of eclectic heritage that speaks a global language, yet is deep-rooted in the timelessness of tradition. The 5/1 Anil Moitra Road (Ballygunge) paradise has a variety of saris, blouses, kurtas, dupattas, stoles, bags in khadi cotton, silk, jamdani, baluchari and more with kantha, shibori, block print and their ‘multi- crafts’, among others. The pieces are one-of-a-kind, with art and craftsmanship making them special.
Weavers Studio turned 31 in December and the celebrations continue with Weavers Studio Resource Centre’s humongous project ‘Textiles from Bengal - A Shared Legacy’. Four years in the making, Darshan, who is the project director and founder, Weavers Studio Resource Centre, along with her team, is all set to finally mount it. The project comprises an ‘immersive exhibition that aims to go beyond the familiar kantha, baluchari, and jamdani, offering a closer look at Bengal’s vibrant and varied textile techniques’, from ‘the 14th to the 20th century’, and the launch of book of the same name that has been edited by Sonia Ashmore, Tirthankar Roy, and Niaz Zaman. The exhibition has been curated by Mayank Mansingh Kaul and designed by Reha Sodhi. Kolkata Centre for Creativity will play host and a two-day symposium is also a part of the itinerary.
In this chat with t2, Darshan looks back at the journey of Weavers Studio that started in 1993, ‘Textiles from Bengal - A Shared Legacy’, and more.
Many congratulations for this wonderful journey. What a fascinating life you’ve had! As you wait to unravel a mammoth dream, what are your feelings at the very beginning of the year?
Happy New Year to everyone reading this! ‘Textiles from Bengal – A Shared Legacy’ has been an incredibly interesting, challenging, and fulfilling project. We began working on it in mid-June 2020, and after years of dedication and hard work, it will finally be inaugurated on January 30 at Kolkata Centre for Creativity. As we approach this milestone, I find myself feeling a blend of anxiety and an overwhelming sense of positive energy, eagerly anticipating what’s to come.
Why was it important to present a project such as ‘Textiles from Bengal – A Shared Legacy’ at this time?
‘Textiles from Bengal – A Shared Legacy’ was important to present for many reasons. Over the last decade, there has been renewed attention on cultural sustenance in India. Textiles have been an integral part of this renaissance. Through our work at Weavers Studio Resource Centre (a not-for-profit trust that we set up in 2007), we observed that the rich legacy of Bengal textiles and techniques that were mastered here needed a stronger spotlight to live on – both through the craftsman and consumer. Further, we felt that we needed a participative dialogue that addressed every element required to do this.
However, the last few important exhibitions – globally and in India - have not done justice to Bengal’s great textile heritage and unmatched skills. Further, the project was born out of the urgent need for impactful action in changing the contemporary status quo.
From backward and forward integration conversations; Epaar Opaar Bengal and the similarities and differences; what really impacted the textiles of the Bengal Delta; migration stories… all these needed to be addressed more seriously.
The debate on the subject of geographical indicators has been ongoing for a while, and it was important to find solutions and a way forward.
The canvas of the project has also helped in setting an agenda towards actionable sustenance of skill sets and expertise evaluation; revisiting textiles like the Colcha, Begum Bahar, Serampore block printing, Farashdanga dhuti and the reasons for their sparse production; the fast-disappearing Balaposh.
We also aim to discuss revival initiatives that have been successful to help the ecosystem, learn and move forward. Last but not least, the project will help set a foundation for contemporary patronage in the form of governmental and private partnerships.
This project aims to foster pride for the textile treasures many old families of Bengal and beyond hold in their personal archives. From museum quality textiles to simple daily-wear saris from the 20th century, we want to encourage people to come forth with their collections and stories. By documenting these, our project would also prove to be an open-source hub for information for research, to intelligently evaluate market gaps, plot interventions and create a refreshed ecosystem for textiles from Bengal.
‘Textiles from Bengal - A Shared Legacy’ has been in the making for four years. What has been the process like?
The journey of creating ‘Textiles from Bengal - A Shared Legacy’ over the past four years has been both memorable and challenging. It has been an incredible opportunity to expand our network, deepen our knowledge, and build an extensive resource directory, enriching our library and archives. We’ve connected with resource persons, engaged deeply with history and the present, and crafted a roadmap for the future.
The process involved intense and extensive work on the publication, curating the exhibition, collaborating with collectors for loans, coordinating with multiple agencies, and fostering team building and upskilling.
What can we expect at the exhibition?
The exhibition promises a meticulously curated display of textiles and supporting objects, designed to meet international standards. Spanning nine thoughtfully organised sections, it showcases a rich narrative, complemented by exhibition texts, section-specific details, and digital tabs that provide access to a vast range of materials beyond what the physical space could accommodate.
Visitors can look forward to a curated walk through of the exhibition, the launch of an accompanying book, an awards ceremony, a documentary film, and an international symposium. Additionally, there will be engaging visitor programmes, hands-on workshops, live performances, and more, offering a holistic and immersive experience.
Looking back, what was the Calcutta of the early ’90s like for entrepreneurship?
Women of Bengal have always been strong, independent, and fearless. The early ’90s in Calcutta was a time of significant change, marked by the advent of new economic policies, improved communication systems, and a surge in opportunities that expanded horizons for entrepreneurship.
With a background in commerce, law, and management, I was able to navigate the initial years of building a career in entrepreneurship and textiles with relative ease. This journey was made possible through the unwavering support of my family, friends, and the community, who were incredibly helpful, encouraging, and forthcoming.
Calcutta in the ’90s also presented immense potential at the grassroots level, where traditional skills awaited channelisation to meet market demands. My focus was on harnessing these skills to deliver high-quality, timely production while adhering to the principles of eco-friendly and sustainable textiles. Our vision emphasized both backwards and forward integration, rooted in strong aesthetics, core values, and inclusive growth. This holistic approach helped establish a disciplined and committed enterprise that stood out in the evolving marketplace.
Did you think the concept was a risk back then?
As a Kutchi/Gujarati, I believe entrepreneurship and risk-taking are deeply ingrained in our DNA. The philosophy of ‘no pain, no gain’ drove me to work tirelessly with consistency and commitment toward the path I had chosen. My mantra was to continually educate myself and upgrade my knowledge and understanding of textiles, ensuring I stayed ahead and confident in navigating the challenges and opportunities of the time.
Tell us about the clusters you work with currently...
When we set up Weavers Studio, our guiding light was to work with as many hands as possible. This ethos holds true even today – literally and figuratively, and drives our ways of working and culture.
Currently, we work with a diverse range of clusters that highlight the richness of India’s textile heritage. These include weavers and kantha embroiderers in Phulia, Shantipur, Khulna, Burdwan, Murshidabad and Santiniketan, as well as Sujni artisans in Bihar. In Kutch, we collaborate with skilled craftspeople specialising in dyeing and weaving, while in Andhra Pradesh, we work with small units focusing on ikats, natural dyes, and weaving.
At our in-house unit, we engage in a variety of techniques such as block printing, hand-painting, batik, jamdani weaving, patchwork, tailoring, shibori, and felting, ensuring a blend of tradition and innovation in every creation.