Christmas is one of my favourite times of the year to cook — not because I am particularly religious nor because I love the idea of turkey (a more bland, listless bird I have yet to stumble upon). Since I grew up in London, where Christmas is such a big deal, it evokes so many good childhood memories and so much nostalgia. I try to recreate that in my home in Pune. We don’t suffer the cold of the UK, but it is chilly and so we can eat Christmas pudding and cake and it is cold enough to serve a roast and lots of warm vegetables and truffle products and pastes I’ve brought back from Italy (I recommend www.boscovivo.it).
One of my favourite recipes that might not make it to the table the rest of the year is a smoked ham or gammon glazed with our marmalade and wholegrain mustard. I have experimented with other glazes but this is a winner every time. This year, I’ll also do chicken in warm spices — perhaps I’ll braise it in a tajine since I have just returned from Morocco and am inspired to cook in a tajine — the conical-shaped vessel they use to cook. All I seem to do when I travel is carry food, crockery or kitchenware from one country to another but it is so gratifying when you lay out the dishes and you hear that murmur of delight. I will also do some prawn balchao – a nod to my Goan heritage and those who must have some spice. A creamy, unctuous potato dauphinoise is a must and, of course, all the desserts — a Christmas pudding, cake, cookies and berries with cream or a strawberry pavlova if I’m feeling energetic!
Christmas is about creating an atmosphere — candles, twinkling lights, music, and a sense of warmth. The food, for me, is less about perfection and more about evoking a sense of tradition and joy. It’s indulgent but meaningful, and every bite tells a story.
Honey Smoked Ham
Ingredients
- Smoked boneless gammon joint (Karen recommends meat from Slice of Pink): 2 kg
- Cola (not diet): 2 litres
- Carrot, chopped: 1
- Onion, peeled and quartered: 1
- Celery, chopped: 1 stick
- Cinnamon sticks: 2
- Peppercorns: 1 tbsp
- Bay leaf: 1
For the glaze:
KA Gourmet Chunky orange marmalade (there’s also a no-added sugar version): ½ jar
KA Gourmet wholegrain mustard: 2 tbsp
Cloves: 10-12
Method
- Put the smoked boneless gammon/ham joint in a large pan and cover with the cola (Pepsi or Coke). Add the chopped carrot, onion, celery stick, cinnamon sticks, peppercorns and bay leaf.
- Bring to the boil, then turn down to simmer for around 2½ hrs, topping up with boiling water if necessary to keep the gammon fully covered. Test that it is done with a skewer.
- Carefully pour the liquid away, then let the ham cool a little while you heat the oven to 190C.
- Lift the ham into a roasting tin, then cut away the skin leaving behind an even layer of fat. Score the fat all over in a criss-cross pattern. At this point, I stuff the fat with cloves at the intersections.
- Mix the marmalade and wholegrain mustard. Pour over the ham and roast for 20 mins till the glaze starts to caramelise.
- Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 10 mins before slicing.
Chicken with Star Anise and Warm Spices
Ingredients
- Chicken: 2 large fillets
For brine water:
- Sea salt: 40g
- Water: 1 1/2 litres
- Cinnamon sticks: 4
- Star anise: 4
- Bay leaves: 2
- Coriander seeds: 1tsp
- Black peppercorns: 1tsp
- Honey: 100 ml
- Thyme: 1 branch
Method
- Make a brine with all ingredients. Boil till reduced by a third. Cool.
- Marinate the chicken in this flavourful brine, ideally for 24 hours. In India, it’s better to do this in a fridge.
- Remove, pat dry and pan fry gently in olive oil.
Glaze the chicken with a mix of orange marmalade and balsamic vinegar. Rest the chicken and then slice.
Potato dauphinoise
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Ingredients
(Serves 4)
- Potatoes: 4 (big)
- Butter: 1 tsp
- Garlic: 1 clove, crushed
- Freshly grated nutmeg: ½ tsp
- Cream: 200 ml
- Milk: ¼ cup
- Salt and pepper
Method
- Lightly grease a shallow oven-proof dish with butter and sprinkle the crushed garlic over.
- Peel and thinly slice the potatoes in the food processor. Parboil them in boiling water for one minute. Drain well.
- Arrange a layer of potato slices in the bottom of the dish. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.
- Whisk together the cream and milk and spread a little evenly over the potato layer. Continue layering the potatoes with the cream and seasoning, finishing with cream topping.
- Bake, uncovered at 1500C until the potatoes are tender.
Strawberry Pavlova
Courtesy Karen Anand
Ingredients
- Egg whites: 4 (at room temperature)
- Pinch of salt
- Castor sugar: 250 g
- Cornflour: 2 tsp
- White wine vinegar: 1 tsp
- Pure vanilla: few drops
- Cream, firmly whipped: 300 ml
- Strawberries, some whole some sliced in half: 2 cups
- KA Gourmet strawberry conserve: 3 tbsp
Method
- Preheat the oven to 1800C. Line a baking tray with baking paper. Draw a 20cm circle on the paper.
- Beat egg whites and salt until a satiny peaks form. Beat in sugar, a third at a time, until the meringue is stiff and shiny.
- Add cornflour, vinegar, and vanilla and fold in lightly. Mound onto a paper-lined baking tray within a circle and flatten top and smooth sides.
- Place in the oven, immediately reduce heat to 1500C and cook for 1 hour. Turn off the oven and leave pavlova in it to cool completely.
- Invert pavlova onto a platter, pile on cream. Put the strawberry jam in a saucepan and heat gently with 2 tbsp water till you end up with a thick sauce.
- Cool the sauce. Place the strawberries on the pavlova and pour on the sauce.
Christmas Pudding
I have eaten Christmas puddings from some of the most sought-after stores in the world — Harrods, Fortnum & Mason and Marks & Spencer. I never bothered reading Christmas pudding recipes since I had no intention of making them. However, several years ago, when I was cooking Christmas lunch for Karan and Neesha Grover in Baroda, Neesha came out with her famous pudding. Lots of chopping, stirring and steaming later, the result was truly magnificent. So much so that I, who did not possess a sweet tooth, took three helpings! Since then, I have been happily following Neesha’s recipe with great success adding a few twists of my own. All the ingredients are easily available in India and the methods are as simple as pie, or rather, pudding.
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Most Christmas pudding needs to be made months in advance. I have neither the time nor the organisational skills to plan my kitchen that much in advance. This recipe can be made three days in advance and tastes amazingly good.
Ingredients
(Makes 4 large puddings)
- Almonds: 100 g (1cup)
- Sultanas (yellow): 120 g (1 cup)
- Currants (black): 120 g (1 cup)
- Raisins (brown): 300 g (2 cups)
- K’s Kitchen chunky orange marmalade: 100 g (3/4 cup)
- Fine breadcrumbs: 250 g
- Butter: 180 g (1¼ cups)
- Cocoa: 2 tbsp
- Plain flour: 180 g (2 cups)
- Baking powder: 3 tsp
- Pinch of salt
- Mixed spice (mace, cardamom, cloves, all spice), ground to powder: 2 tsp
- Grated nutmeg: 2 tsp
- Cinnamon, powdered:1 tsp
- Brown sugar: 400 g (2 cups)
- Juice and rind of 2 limes
- Eggs: 6
- Milk: ½ cup
- Brandy: ½ bottle
- Rum: ¼ bottle
Method
- Wash all the dry fruits. Dry thoroughly. Remove seeds, if necessary, and chop in a food processor. Any other way is simply too time consuming and you are likely to lose interest in the recipe at this stage. Soak overnight with rum and half the brandy.
- Blanch and chop almonds (also in the mixer). Grate butter from the fridge. Sieve the flour, cocoa and spices. Add brown sugar, juice and rind of limes, butter, almonds, breadcrumbs, marmalade and dried fruit. Stir well. Stir in the eggs, milk, and remaining brandy. Leave for 2 hours.
- Put the mixture into a greased pudding mould (preferably glass or ceramic). Leave 1 inch from the top to expand. Tie with greaseproof paper or foil and then a muslin cloth.
- Place all the puddings in a large vessel (handi). Pour in enough water to come 2/3 of the way up the puddings. Let the water come to a rolling boil and then reduce the heat slightly.
- Cover with a lid and steam for 4–5 hours. You may need to top up with water during cooking, since the bowls must always be 2/3 submerged in water. When cooked, remove from the water and store in a cool place (not a fridge).
- The puddings should last at least three months.
- They can be re-heated by steaming once more or in a microwave on high for 3 minutes. Serve warm with cream or brandy butter.
Figs Poached in Red Wine and Tea
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Ingredients
(Serves 4)
- Dried figs: 300 gms
- Brandy: ¾ cup
- Dry red wine: ¾ cup
- Honey: ½ cup
- KA Gourmet sugar free chunky orange marmalade: 2 tbsp
- Strong unsweetened tea, without milk: 1 cup
- Juice and zest of two limes
- Grated ginger: ½ tsp
- Cloves: 2
- Cinnamon: 2-inch piece
- A few drops of vanilla essence
Method
- Wash the figs in warm water, drain and place in a bowl. Pour in the brandy, cover and leave overnight.
- Next morning, pour the brandy and figs into a saucepan. Add all the other ingredients and simmer for 30 mins to an hour until the fruit is soft. The syrup should be like a thickish sauce.
- Serve the figs with a little syrup and some whipped yoghurt or cream on the side.